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Fur Terminology

Cutting and sewing a fur garment is indeed a labor of love. Because every pelt is unique, creating a fur coat can never be autamated. Every fur piece represents weeks of specialized labour and fine hand craftsmanship. Furriers have specialized skills which often have been handed down from generation to generation. The creation of each fur requires meticulous workmanship. The following terms describe some of the elements involved:


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Brightener added


Just like hair, fur color and luster can be enhanced with special treatments.


Dyeing


The sky is the limit when it comes to color. In addition to natural tones, all furs can now be dyed in a wide range of exciting and beautiful hues. Dyeing is sometimes also used to correct any imperfections and to improve uniformity. Sometimes the pelt is bleached white before color is added.

Fur Layers  


Guard hair is the long, lustrous layer of a fur; it protects the underfur (or duvet), which provides warmth and insulation.

 
Guard Hair

Long, lustrous outer hair that protects the underfur.

Knitted Fur


Knittable yarn is now produced by combining narrow strips of fur with silk or cottin yarn; fur yarn is now used in myrias techniques including crocheting, weaving and knitting to produce soft, cozy apparel. Some knitted furs are now machine washable!


Leathering


Strips of fur are alternated with leather, cloth or ribbon for unique fashion effects and increased lightness.


Letting Out


Cutting the pelt into diagonal strips and resewing it to make the pelt longer and narrower. Sometimes referred to as dropping out. The effect is supple and smooth flowing.

 
Mutation

Natural furs of special colors that are produced by selective breeding.
 
Plucking


To emphasize the velvet underhair of the fur, guard hair is selectively plucked for various effects.

 
Shearing
 


This technique is used to trim fur to a short pile, sometimes as low as 5 mm, to reduce bulkiness and weight while creating intricate sculptural patterns in the fur.

 
Shearling

Natural lamb pelts with the leather side often sueded and worn on the outside.
 
Skin-on-Skin

Rectangular pelts are sewn together to create a box effect as an alternative to the letting out process.
Special Effects


As designers explore fur's infinite versatility, they are increasingly treating it with the same creativity as fabric. Their innovative technique continue to surprise and delight: fur is intricately draped, beaded, embroidered, pierced, laser cut, stenciled, fringed...

 
Tip-Dyeing

Sometimes called blending. Dye is applied only to the tips of guard hairs to produce more color uniformity.
 
Underfur

The underhair covered by guard hairs. This is the layer of the fur that acts as insulation to provide warmth.
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